Key Takeaways
- Check for immediate safety hazards — downed lines, loose branches, unstable structures — before inspecting anything.
- Work zone by zone around the house rather than glancing at one side, since storm damage typically concentrates on whichever side faced the wind.
- Hail smaller than about an inch (quarter size) rarely causes functional damage; larger hail is where roofers and insurers start paying close attention.
- Photograph everything before touching or cleaning up debris; insurers rely on that documentation.
- Missing shingles, an active leak, or dented metal roofing are reasons to call a roofer within a day or two, not wait for a routine inspection slot.
Wait until the storm has fully passed and check your surroundings for downed power lines or unstable trees before you go outside at all. Once it’s safe, the goal is a systematic ground-level survey followed by an attic check, done in that order and photographed as you go, since insurers generally want documentation before any repairs or patching happens.
Start with what’s on the ground
Walk the perimeter and look for shingle pieces, granules, or metal flashing fragments on the lawn or driveway — finding roofing material at ground level is a direct sign something came off the roof itself. Check gutters and downspouts for a sudden, heavy accumulation of granules, which points to hail impact even if no shingles are visibly missing. Also check outdoor AC units, siding, and window screens for dents or dings; hail damage there is a reasonably reliable proxy for what hit the roof, especially since those surfaces are often easier to inspect closely than the roof itself.
Know what the hail size actually means
Hail is commonly described by comparison to everyday objects, and the size matters more than most people assume. Pea-size hail, around a quarter inch, rarely causes functional roof damage on its own. Marble-size, about half an inch, starts to affect older or already-weakened shingles but isn’t usually a major concern on a healthy roof. Quarter-size hail, about one inch in diameter, is the point the National Weather Service treats as the threshold for “severe” hail, and it’s also where asphalt shingles commonly begin to bruise and shed granules. Golf ball-size hail, around 1.75 inches, causes significant damage across most residential roofing materials, including tile and metal. If you know or can find out how large the hail was during a storm, that alone tells you a lot about how seriously to take a follow-up inspection.
Survey the roof zone by zone
Use binoculars and work around the house in sections rather than looking from a single spot, since wind-driven damage is rarely uniform across all roof planes. Look specifically for shingles that are missing, visibly lifted at the edge, or showing bare patches where granules were stripped away. On metal roofing, look for dents, which are more visible after hail than after wind, and check for panels that look like they’ve shifted from their fastening points. Hail damage on asphalt shingles often shows up as small, dark, bruise-like spots rather than obvious holes, and it can be easy to miss unless you know to look for that specific pattern.
Don’t forget the rest of the exterior
Siding, window frames, and any fencing or outbuildings on the property are worth a quick look too, both because storm damage there often correlates with roof damage and because insurers typically want a full property assessment, not just the roof, documented together. A fallen branch large enough to damage a fence panel is also large enough to cause structural, not just cosmetic, roof damage, so treat visible yard debris as a cue to look more carefully rather than something to just clean up right away.
Then check the attic
Moisture, new staining on the underside of the decking, or a musty smell in the attic can mean water got in even when the roof looks intact from outside. This step matters most after wind-driven rain specifically, since that kind of rain can work its way under shingles or through compromised flashing without leaving obvious exterior signs. Bring a flashlight and check every section of the attic, not just the area above where you noticed exterior damage, since water travels along the decking before it drips and doesn’t necessarily show up directly beneath the entry point.
Document before you touch anything
Take photos and video of every zone, including areas with no visible damage, since that establishes a baseline if an adjuster later disputes what happened during a specific storm versus gradual wear. Include a scale reference where possible — a tape measure or a common object next to the damage — and note the date. Photograph the whole roof plane, not just close-ups of the damage itself, since context helps an adjuster understand where a problem sits relative to the rest of the roof. If you spot missing shingles, an active leak, or dented metal, most roofers recommend getting a professional inspection scheduled within a couple of days rather than waiting, since a compromised roof left exposed can turn a repair into a much larger job after the next rain.
Watch for storm-chasing contractors
Major storms in an area often bring door-to-door contractors offering free inspections, and while some are legitimate, it’s worth being cautious about anyone pressuring you to sign a repair contract on the spot before you’ve had time to review it or get a second quote. A roofer offering to “cover your insurance deductible” by inflating the invoice is asking you to participate in insurance fraud, which carries real legal risk for the homeowner, not just the contractor, and is illegal in most states. Getting a local, established roofer, ideally one you can verify through licensing records or reviews with some history behind them, is worth the extra day or two it might take compared to signing with whoever knocks first.
DIY-checkable versus call a professional
The ground survey, attic check, and documentation are all safe to do yourself. Getting on the roof itself after a storm is specifically discouraged by most roofing professionals, since storm-damaged roofs can be structurally compromised in ways that aren’t obvious, and wet or debris-covered surfaces add fall risk on top of that.
Frequently Asked Questions
How soon after a storm should I schedule a professional inspection?
If you’ve spotted missing shingles, an active leak, or dented metal roofing, aim to get a professional out within a couple of days rather than waiting for a routine slot. If your ground survey turns up nothing obvious, it’s still reasonable to schedule a standard inspection within the next few weeks, since some wind damage doesn’t show visible signs until it leaks later.
Will my homeowners insurance cover storm damage found weeks later?
Coverage depends on your policy and on being able to tie the damage to a specific, datable storm event rather than general wear, which is part of why documenting the roof’s condition periodically, not just after storms, is useful. Reporting damage as soon as it’s found, rather than delaying, generally strengthens a claim.
Is a tarp a real fix after storm damage, or just temporary?
A tarp is meant purely as a temporary measure to stop water intrusion until a proper repair can be made, not a substitute for fixing the underlying damage. Leaving a tarp in place for an extended period risks its own problems, including wind lifting it and further exposing the roof.
How do I know if a contractor offering a free storm inspection is legitimate?
Check that they’re licensed and insured in your state, look for a physical business address and a history of local reviews rather than only a truck and a phone number, and be wary of anyone pushing you to sign a contract before a formal written estimate. A legitimate contractor will give you time to compare quotes rather than pressuring same-day commitment.